Zenith Guru's, I Need Vintage Advice,,,,,please :)

[Bwana1]

I've gotten some advice from members, on other brands....but looking into Zenith due to it's history and quality. I'm trying to find the model that fits the bill.

I'm after a vintage piece with the following specs:

• Circa 1959 (birthdate)
• 36mm-38mm (37-38mm would be great)
• Gold case, gold indices, gold hands
• White/cream dial
• Sub seconds dial
• Manual winding
• No complications, no date
• Classic style dress piece

This is the style (maybe even the correct model ?) that I'm looking for:

All pics borrowed from the "free photobucket internet".


I'm a complete idiot, when it comes to vintage watches or movements.....please speak slooowly so I can understand you, thanks in advance

All thoughts and suggestions welcome

 

[LouS]

Zenith made scads and scads of watches which should fit the bill - the only criteria which may present a problem is the size - most being in the 34-35mm range - although with some reasonable patience, an appropriate one ought to present itself. None of these has a model name, though, if that's what your're looking for. You've got to simply comb the listings for vintage Zeniths.

 

[Bwana1]

Appreciate the reply Lou, surprising no model number tho.

Is there a particular manual wind movement, that I should be looking for ? I would assume there are very respected movements, that are sought after because of quality or accuracy.

 

[LouS]

Well, top of the heap for 1959 would be chronometers with cal 135, Zenith's dominating 30mm movement that swept chronometry prizes from 1950-1954, including an absolute record in 1954. It comes at a pretty stiff premium to other Zenith movements, but it is the configuration you are looking for. Next is probably the cal 40 or 40T, a very good, chronometer capable movement. The 120 series is central seconds, so that's out, as is the 133.8 and the 71 because they are bumper automatics.

For 1959, you are looking for a movement number in the 4700000 - 4850000 range.

 

[Bwana1]

Lou, great info...I see the cal designation numbers aren't stamped on the movement...how do I "know" by a quick look ?

Was the watch I posted the link to, a winner ?

 

[LouS]

Bwana1

Lou, great info...I see the cal designation numbers aren't stamped on the movement...how do I "know" by a quick look ?

Was the watch I posted the link to, a winner ?

No quick way to know. You have to recognize the movement by its appearance. You posted a cal 40 from about 1956, so very nearly a winner by your criteria. Here's a cal 135 for comparison - the huge balance wheel is characteristic of this one.

 

[Bwana1]

Thanks Lou, yea I just Googled it for a look....and yes, they are real pricy.

What movement was in the model I posted ?

 

[LouS]

LouS

You posted a cal 40 from about 1956, so very nearly a winner by your criteria.

 

[Bwana1]

Oooooh, close but no cigar.....last question (I'm lying ) The main differences between a 40 & 40T ?

Here's a 1959 40T...wonder how big the case is ?

 

[ulackfocus]

Bwana1

FYI: that's a refinished dial.

 

[LouS]

U ulackfocus

FYI: that's a refinished dial.

Yep, definitely. Avoid.

Bwana1

.last question (I'm lying ) The main differences between a 40 & 40T ?

One has a "T" - I kid, I kid. The T has a mobile hairspring stud whereas the plain 40 is fixed. Roessler says that the 40 is usually gold plated and the 40T nickel plated - that's probably an easier way to spot the difference than to make out the details of the stud.

this is the hairspring stud BTW

 

[Bwana1]

U ulackfocus

FYI: that's a refinished dial.

I figured so, but it sure is pretty ....I told you Dennis, I'm not a purist collector...just a fool on a mission

LouS

One has a "T" - I kid, I kid. The T has a mobile hairspring stud whereas the plain 40 is fixed. Roessler says that the 40 is usually gold plated and the 40T nickel plated - that's probably an easier way to spot the difference than to make out the details of the stud.


this is the hairspring stud BTW

I see...says the blind man. I'll keep looking, seems like the size 37-38mm may be a challenge.

Lou & Dennis, you've both been a big help.....Thanks guys

 

[Stewart H]

There is nothing much more that can be added to what Lou says except that as a guide, the 135 is a 13"' movement (c. 30mm dia.) and the 40 / 40T is 12"' (c. 27.5mm dia.) So, you would be looking for a 40 movement set in a case with a casing ring about 5mm thick.